Complete Tri

Power Meter Buying Guide – Review of the Best Models

Cycling power meters can help cyclists take their conditioning and speed to the next level.  A good power meter might not be on the “basic needs” list for a beginner, but many intermediate and advanced cyclists and triathletes can benefit from one.  Powermeters can be relatively easy to install, and used both with tri bikes and road bikes.  For that matter, they can really be used with any bike, but most people who use them are trying to increase their training precision and crank up their speed. You wouldn’t lift weights without knowing how many pounds were on each dumb bell.  The logic of power meters is the same — you can improve what you can measure. Most cyclists and bikers are gear junkies, but power meters add another level of sophistication to bike gear.  They can be a bit difficult to get your head around because of the fundamentally different options available for measuring power, but we will try to simplify it in our guide below. First, we are going to get right to the point and share with you our favorite power meter models and setups for different situations.  We are listing our favorite 4, from least expensive to most. Best Bike Powermeters For 2024 Best Pedal-Based Power Meter / Best Overall:  Garmin Rally 200 Here. We hesitate to choose a single power meter model as best, because every type of power meter has its own merits and it can be hard to compare one to the other.  We describe how various power meters work below, but if you want the simplest possible design this is it.  Garmin makes a pedal-based power meter that measures our watt output based purely on the force exerted on the pedals.  Yeah – that is pretty incredible.  While you might miss just a bit of the accuracy of a full-on power-measuring system, we have found that pedal-based power meters give you everything you need on performance, and some pretty incredible data as well.  It is a high-tech product and our experience is that the readouts are going to be accurate. We did a full Garmin Rally 200 pedal review. Note that Garmin suggests this power measurement is accurate for riders up to 240 lbs.  Above that, we are not exactly sure what happens, but they suggest it might not work as well. An important factor to consider with the Rally 200 is the cleat type. This pedal is currently made in two pedal styles — the RS is the SDP-SL model, and the XC is the SPD model.  You can get one-sided or dual-sided (meaning you can have just one pedal give you power readouts, or both).  There is not reason to not go with the dual, other than the higher price. We had good luck with the batteries, good for up to 120 hours per the manufacturer and we believe it based on our field tests.  As for getting your readout of power, the most common method is probably going to be to add the Garmin software to your phone and logging it that way.  For those who want an easy way to monitor power while on a ride, you may want to mount the head-unit on your bike, but the place to track your data from ride-to-ride is on your Garmin Connect, not your watch or computer. The only issue we had was that the battery cover came off a couple times.  We lost it once. You can save money going with the Rally 100 pedals, but that is only single-sided so you get none of the pedal symmetry stats. For $1,100, this is not cheap but if you have the budget, you will be astounded by the data provided.  Of the choices you have, this is going to be by far the easiest and simplest to install.  It is as easy as putting a new pedal on.  Buy it direct from Garmin for the best deals and service. Runner-Up Power Meter:  Stages Crank Arm-Based Powermeters Also at the simple entry level, but in a different concept, is the stages line of power meters.  We love these.  Like the Garmin, they rely on making just a slight adjustment on one side of your power system.  Unlike the Garmin, the Stages model does it through a modified crank. The crank that you put on your bike is a carbon fiber, high-end crank that has a weight and material on par with the good Shimano and Campy products that come stock on your bike.  They make models for mountain and road bikes – we are obviously focused more on road bikes (and triathlon bikes) in this review.  The powermeter sits inside the left crank, and it is already fully installed and sealed inside.  You don’t need to do anything but put the crank on the bike (with a torque wrench — these are delicate materials). The cons of a crank-based approach are that you are obviously messing with something — the crank length and design — that you might be completely comfortable with already.  You really won’t feel much of a difference if you swap out hubs (noted below), but you may feel a difference when you use new cranks.  Still, these are very well-designed cranks, so for most people it will be a lateral move or even an upgrade. The battery life is going to be significantly longer than the pedal model, at 200 hours or more.  You can measure up to 2500 watts, which is more than enough for any cyclist on earth, same with the up-to 220 RPM tempo measurement.  We love that the weight will only add about 18-20 grams to an otherwise 170-200 gram setup, hardly enough to even register.  Note that it is designed to only go on one of your cranks (usually the left) so your reading will be from that side only.  For most cyclists, that shouldn’t be an issue. The Stages Crank Arm-based meter comes in both Ultegra and Dura-Ace models, to … Read more

Best Triathlon Watches

Garmin Epix Pro

There was a time when running or sports watches could only offer time and heart rate, and offered little additional value.  Thankfully, those times are long gone.  With the proliferation of GPS-enabled devices and better waterproofing, today’s best triathlon watches are quite advanced in their offering and can help any athlete train with more precision.  These are true multipart watches that can be used in a number of workouts and races. We will even take it a step further:  We think you need a good triathlon watch in order to train effectively.  Training precision is key because it helps you train less, but smarter and better. If you have looked at fitness watches or trackers lately, then you know that one of the problems is the sheer number of choices.  It can be paralysis by analysis. For 2024, the watchmakers have turned the simple watches into complex fitness tracking tools.  They can tell you how far you’ve gone, how fast you are going, the intensity of your overall workout, other key health info, and even integrate with your bike’s power meter (if you have one).  They can upload data to shared apps (like Strava) to help you share your training with the community. These triathlon watches work in three different modes of swimming, running, and cycling. If you are running a triathlon and looking for a smart watch, you need to look for all these modes. Through comparing different watches available in the market, we have identified our four favorite watches for you.  Some are spendy, some are cheaper.  All are watches that we would recommend other triathletes in various situations. You do not need to be a triathlete to benefit from these multisport watches. Why wouldn’t you, for the same price, go with an option that can accommodate cycling and swimming, in addition to running. We think it is a no-brainer for anyone who is active. Spoiler alert:  There are going to be lots of Garmins on this list.  They are investing the most in designing good multisport watches these days. 7 Best Triathlon Watches With no further adieu, here are our picks: Garmin Forerunner 955 or, Find here on Amazon.   Lets us cut to the chase — the 955 is our favorite multisport watch on the market today, especially for the price.  Garmins are cranking out the best full lineup of multisport electronics for 2024, as evidenced by them having 3 of the top 5 spots on our list.  I’ve noticed that Garmin is pushing the Epix and Fenix lines harder than the Forerunner, but my experience with the Forerunner, and the experience of my triathlon circle, won’t let me ignore it. The Forerunner lineup is time-tested and reliable for triathletes and cyclists. The 955 took the already-good 945 and 935, and dialed up the functionality, precision, and options in a way that will be intriguing for those who have richer budgets or want to be incredibly scientific about their workout trending.  It is an absolute gamechanger in one respect, and that is the ability to stream your music and podcast to your bluetooth headphones. Who ever thought you would be able to listen to music on your run without having your phone or Ipod along (assuming you have bluetooth earphones). Garmin figured it out with the Forerunner 955.  For some, that will be enough reason to upgrade. There is also a Forerunner 955 mode, but we actually like the 945 better. It isn’t as chunky on your wrist. Design The watch has the nice rounded-face that we are fans of, because it feels less bulky and more like, well, a watch.  It comes in just one color — black — and may look more casual than the Fenix which we profile below.  It has five buttons around the watch face, so if you are going for the “ultra-sleek” design, just keep that in mind.  On the outside, it looks pretty much identical to the 935, and with a depth of 13.7mm, it doesn’t feel too “chunky” on most wrists. But on the inside is where it is really a different device than its predecessors — let’s get to that next. Features This is a multisport-specific watch, which means it is also great for cycling, running, and swimming individually. The features of the 955 put it in a different category than the 935 and are a slight upgrade from the 945, which for some will make a no-brainer case for purchasing, and for others might be more than you want in a run and bike workout tracker.  The watch can hold up to 200 hours of activity data, allowing you to go back and analyze your past several workouts without using an app.  A whole slew of sensors gives you everything from heart rate to temperature, barometric pressure to a gyroscope and a compass. Perhaps the most notable advancement is that you can play smartphone music from the watch, as long as you have bluetooth headphones to pair to the watch.  This feature will impact battery life, but may well be worth it to not have to carry multiple devices.  Music storage is up to 1,000 songs, which is impressive and on par with early-generation ipods. Pretty impressive. As for sports, it does everything.  Cycling, running, swimming, skiing, golf, elevation, etc.  It provides pre-programmed maps of routes as well as ski runs.  It integrates with your Strava or other 3rd party apps so you can have the watch be a one-stop-shop.  Sleep tracking, heart rate tracking, and VO2 max tracking are all included — but nowadays most Garmins come with those features. The watch also gives you more of the functionality you find in the Apple watch, such as the ability to pay at a scanner with your watch, as well as some preloaded workout maps.  For all this, battery life is pretty good if you are using the basic functionality, but if you are wearing it and using all the functionality all day long, a … Read more

Triathlon Shorts Buying Guide

best triathlon shorts

Triathlon shorts are perhaps one of the most versatile and core pieces of a triathlon clothing wardrobe for any serious or beginning triathlete.  Because it is the one piece of gear that you wear for each leg — the swim, bike, and run – investing in a pair is an easy way to check an important box for your race-day triathlon attire.  Other than shoes, a good pair of triathlon shorts will be all you need to wear on your lower half during a triathlon.   In most triathlons, the majority of racers have some combination of triathlon shorts and triathlon or workout shirt, if they are not using a full-on triathlon suit.  Investing in a good pair of triathlon shorts can be a good way to get into the sport of triathlon without dropping a ton of money on higher-end gear, and a way to simplify the race because you won’t have to worry about ever changing your bottoms.  Even in cases were you may choose to race in a tri suit, having a good pair of tri shorts (or a few good pairs) will be useful for your training and open water swims. Triathlon shorts come in a couple major quality levels, and share a few key features. In this article, we summarize what you should look for in a good triathlon short as well as our preferred models. The Bottom Line: Our Tri Shorts Picks We have listed five triathlon shorts that we recommend below, but if you are in a hurry, here is a quick summary.  Read down below for much more detail. Our favorite higher-end triathlon short is the De Soto 4-Pocket Forza Model, great for any race distance.  Perfect combination of comfort, quality, and performance.  Find Here on Amazon. If you don’t want to spend as much, our top mid-range tri short is the Pearl Izumi Select, about half the price of the De Soto, and a reliable garment good for Sprints and Olympic races.  Find Here on Amazon. Triathlon Shorts:  What to Look For Tri shorts are a key part of your training and your race.  Few other garments are expected to deliver on the all-purpose duty that you will need from your shorts.  They need to be both durable and breathable.  They need to do well in the water as well as on the bike.  Those are tall orders for any pair of shorts, but fortunately today’s tri gear makers have done a nice job of blending the right fabric and features so you truly can wear one pair of shorts throughout the race. A good pair of tri shorts quickly become a go-to garment that you can use for training for any event, as well as on race day.  Note, however, that tri shorts are not intended to be used in chlorinated pools.  Doing so will wear them out quickly.  Most triathletes who we know reserve their tri shorts for bricks (combo bike and run workouts) and race day, using swim jammers in the pool and cycling shorts on their longer rides. Tri shorts are different from cycling shorts or compression shorts.  While compression gear is meant truly to increase blood flow and recovery, and cycling shorts are purpose-built specifically for the activity of cycling, tri shorts are much more versatile in both form and function. When you are buying your tri shorts, key things to look for include: Fabric that is truly all-purpose.   The material in your shorts need to be breathable on the bike and run, quick drying out of the water, but great during the swim.  Most makers know how to create great fabric blends that are good during the swim but will essentially be dry by the time you get on the bike.  We don’t know how they do it, but they do. A bike seat pad that is sufficient for longer rides and quick-drying as you exit the water.  Bike pads in triathlon shorts are not as substantial or thick as those you find in single-purpose bike shorts.  In fact, they are quite a bit thinner.  That is necessary, however, in order for your pad to not remain wet while you ride the bike in the second leg of the race.  If it did, it would introduce chafing that would in turn introduce misery. Seams that you can’t feel.  Like a good pair of compression shorts or compression tights, the seams in a triathlon short need to be flat enough so you don’t even know they are there, yet strong enough so they are durable.  Seam construction is one of the things that usually improves as you spend more on the shorts. The right length.  Most tri shorts have an inseam length ranging from 6 inches (very short) to 10 inches (on the long side).  There is no perfect length – it is a personal preference thing.  But don’t settle for a length that you are not comfortable in. Comfortable leg grips.  The grips on the bottom of the shorts need to do two things:  hold tight on your leg so the shorts don’t ride up, and do it without digging in to your skin.  Most makers have developed a good system of leg grips, capable of keeping your shorts from riding up on the bike or run, and from bunching up underneath your tri wetsuit. However, this is another area where spending more sometimes gets you better comfort.  The best leg grippers are the ones that you don’t even know are there. Pockets.  We go back and forth on pockets…. while they certainly are not a necessity, especially for those doing a Sprint, they are a nice feature that you get used to, once you have them.  Especially if you are someone who does longer races or relies on gel packs during your bike or run, you might want to consider the models that include a couple pockets. A good fit.  Having the right fit in all of your workout gear is essential, and it is no different with … Read more

Clincher vs. Tubular Bike Tires

Clincher or Tubular?  When it comes to bike tires, those are your choices.  It is a common question among cyclists, triathletes, and recreational bikers.  Why are there even two types of bike tires?  Each evolved with its own set of reasons and following.  We wanted to give you the definitive low-down on which tire you should go with. Before we go any further, the clincher is the “normal” tire that you are probably used to from riding other bikes – ranging from your childhood bike to a BMX racer to a typical mountain bike or comfort bike.  The clincher is far more common, and generally viewed as the standard. Clincher Bike Tires Clinchers are the bike tires you rode as a kid.  They have an outer “carcass” made for whatever type bike they need to be.  The name clincher comes from the fact that these tires “clinch” to the rim of the wheel with a bead of hard rubber.  Like a car tire, a clincher has an open bottom, and the only way it stays on the rim is to clinch to it. A clincher needs an innertube in order to operate.  The tube is what holds the air, and creates solid pressure against the tire.  When you pump air into a clincher tire, you are really pumping air into the tube.  The tire just sits on top of the tube. You will have a couple choices in valve stems for pump air into the tire – Schrader vs. Presta valves. The one found on many kids and standard bike is a Shrader valve, it is wider and more basic.  The thinner, sleeker valve stem is the Presta valve.  It is what you find on pretty much all road or triathlon bikes, but you need to make sure you have a bike tire pump that can accommodate it. Clinchers are easy. Easy to install, relatively easy to fix on the road if you get a flat. There are many great clincher tires to choose from, and it really all depends on the combination of durability and performance you are looking for.  Our favorite clincher tire right now is the Vittoria Rubino Pro. (find it here on Amazon). Tubular Bike Tires Hardcore cyclists and road bike racers have long considered tubulars to be the gold standard.  They ride like a dream because of the lighter weight and tight adherence to the him. Tubular tires look the same as clinchers on the outside, but work in a very different way.  Tubulars are completely round, so there is no open part of the tire that needs to clinch.  There is also no tube needed – -the tube is basically sewn into the tire and is part of it.  As a result, the tubular is just one piece, whereas the clincher is two pieces (tube and tire).  Tubular tires are often glued to the rim, because without some glue they tend to move around a bit. Tubulars are less common, but have a strong following with many road and triathlon cyclists.  We will get into a comparison below, but they tend to be lighter and sometimes more durable.  If you are not used to working with tubulars, though, it may take a little practice to become handy with them. Tubulars are a pain for install and repair, so bear that in mind. Our favorite all-purpose tubular is the Vittoria Rubino G+ (here on Amazon). Comparison of Clincher vs. Tubular Bike Tires Here are a few of the pros and cons of tubulars vs. clinchers, based on our experience in input from many experienced cyclists. Cost.  Advantage Clinchers.  Clinchers tend to cost less than tubulars, and while not significant difference it is probably in the 20-30% range.  What really causes the clinchers to cost less is the fact that when a tubular goes flat, you change the whole tubular.  When a clincher goes flat, you typically just change the tube, which costs $5 – $7.  (note that you need to change a clincher tire once in a while too) Note that tubulars require a different rim for your bike wheel, as well. Simplicity.  Advantage Clinchers.  Some would argue that as long as you learn how to work on a tubular, it is every bit as easy to change as a clincher.  That is the problem though – most beginner and intermediate cyclists have not worked on tubulars, but they know clinchers.  Tubular tires also require glueing them to the rim.  That can be a tedious job, but something you get good at just like changing a clincher tire (for a road fix, you can usually get by without the glue for the ride home).  Just know that if you make the move to clinchers, you will need to spend a little time learning how to change the tire. Durability.  Advantage Tubulars.  This obviously depends on which tire you buy.  A clincher Gatorskin is going to be stronger than a tubular slick.  But all things being equal, the tubular is typically going to give you a little more mileage because of its construction.  Having the tube basically sewn to the tire gives you a bit more strength, and it also eliminates the possibility of pinch flats or getting a small piece of rock in between the tire and tube (which almost always causes a flat). Weight.  Advantage Tubulars.  Because you don’t have the clincher bead, and the tube is really part of the tire, the tubular tire is usually going to be a bit lighter.  It is not uncommon for a tubular setup to be 200 grams lighter – per tire – than a clincher setup.  While this might matter for elite cyclists, most of us would probably notice more of a weight difference if we simply lost a pound or two! Road fixes.  Advantage Clinchers.  This one is a very clear advantage.  Fixing a road flat is pretty quick with a clincher, especially if you have a few reps under your belt.  Fixing a … Read more

Buying an Entry Level Triathlon Bike

Buying your first entry level triathlon bike can be a daunting task.  When I bought mine, I was extremely excited about getting on a built-for-triathlon bike, but a little nervous that it was going to be an entirely new type of bike for me. Of all the investments you will make in the sport of triathlon, no single one has the potential to carry the cost of your tri bike. While any given race will see its share of $3,000, $4,000, and higher-priced top-end cycles, the right bike for a beginner triathlete doesn’t have to be that expensive even though the triathlon bike entry-level pricing has gone up dramatically in recent years.  Still, it is pretty easy to spend $1,500 to $2,000 on a quality starter triathlon bike and end up with a very good ride. Here are a few things to look for in your entry-level tri bike, along with a few recommendations. Tri Bike or Road Bike? Perhaps the most common question from new triathletes is if they should even buy a triathlon bike at all, or if it is smarter to just go with a road bike.  (By the way, if you were looking for a deep dive on road bikes, we did that too.  Check it our complete guide to road bikes) The answer seems obvious, but it is worth articulating: It depends on the type of riding that you plan to do. If triathlon might be a once-every-few-years type of thing for you, but you have paved trails in your area, you might opt for a road bike. We won’t go into road bike recommendations, because they exist all over the web. If you think, however, that you might want to do a triathlon each summer, or maybe train for a Half or an Ironman, then investing in a triathlon bike can be a great idea. Triathlon bikes are built with specific geometry to give you a posture allowing for a more direct transfer of power to the cranks, and puts you in a position that will leave you with a little more gas in the tank for the run. You will most notice the power difference of a tri bike when cycling hard down a straightaway. The power transfer to your cranks can be pretty exhilarating. We do recommend investing in one or the other — a triathlon bike or a nice road bike — instead of splitting the difference on two mediocre bikes.  Having a go-to bike that you can get to really well, become comfortable with, and gradually upgrade the componentry on will make you a better cyclist over time.  We even like putting that bike on an indoor bike trainer in the winter so you get good work on the very bike you will be racing on.  Riding the same bike year-round will give you a great feel for the bike and make it very responsive for you over time. Of course, if you have the budget, having both a nice tri bike and a nice road bike are nice to have, but we know it comes at a cost. What to Look for in a Triathlon Bike There are a few things I recommend you look for in your triathlon bike, regardless of your budget.  Triathlon bikes come in all shapes and sizes, and all price points. At the entry level, here are a few things we suggest you focus on to make sure you are getting the most value for your money. Fit Every good bike advisor will tell you that getting the right fit is the single most important factor in if you will enjoy your bike. The fit should be one that feels comfortable, but also allows you to transfer max power to the pedals. A high-end bike that stretches you out a bit too much, for example, will not ride nearly as well as a lesser bike that fits you. Note that different brands have different angles and builds, so a 56cm bike in one brand is not always identical to the same size in another brand. The bottom line:  Do not compromise on fit. Invest in a good bike fitting once you choose your bike, or even before you choose it! Frame One of the biggest determinants of triathlon bike pricing is the frame materials.  It is not as easy as saying “this one is the best”, it really depends on how you plan to ride. Carbon Fiber costs more than Aluminum, which costs more than Steel. You really won’t see many steel bikes on the market anymore, so let’s rule those out for purposes of triathlon training.  As you look at frame options, know that carbon is going to be the lightest of the entry-level price point frames, and it typically provides the best overall ride on the road.  It can be a very responsive frame on hills and accelerations, and is in some ways the standard out there today.  The downfall is that it can be easily damaged, and the damage is not always visible which can create safety issues. Aluminum is by no means going away.  People like the durability of aluminum, and the fact that it is less expensive.  If a manufacturer makes a bike with an aluminum frame, it often means that they had more money left over to put better components on it, all while staying within their target MSRP.  In some ways, you get get more bike for the money, although it is likely going to be a little bumpier riding down a rough road.  You won’t see many steel-framed bikes on the triathlon market, save for some very old used models.  Titanium is also a growing type of frame, but typically not as the entry-level price point.  In general, try to get the highest-end frame that you can afford, because you can always update components over the years. Why? Because the better the frame, the a) lighter it will be, and b) the more your effort will … Read more

Vittoria Tires Review

bike tire vittoria cycling

Vittoria has been around since 1953, and unlike so many companies in the cycling gear space, they have managed to focus on just one thing that whole time:  Tires.  Vittoria says they make 7 million tires a year, an impressive figure!   The Vittoria brand name is synonymous with professional racing tires, as they are built for speed and handling.  At the same time, Vittoria tires are also pretty closely associated with high price and questionable durability. Without a doubt, top-of-the-line Vittoria racing tires are popular and fast, but also skittish creatures.  At the other end of the company’s product line, however, some pleasant surprises are to be found that are both nice on your bike and reasonable on your bank account. The Vittoria lineup has been relatively stable for the past few years, so we will outline them below.  Note that this review is mainly for triathlon bike (aka time trial) and road bike tires.  Vittoria is also into making tires for hybrid, comfort, and mountain bikes, but we are going to focus on those tires most commonly used by triathletes. Corsa The Corsa series is Vittoria’s high-end line of road bike tires, with 11 models that all feature the company’s 320 TPI casing material for maximum flexibility and handling.  Corsa models include the standard Corsa, the Corsa speed, the Corsa tubular, and the Triathlon speed versions.  These are all made with advanced materials and designed for competition.  The Triathlon Speed tire is a bit more puncture resistant given the unpredictable road conditions associated with a triathlon.  Vittoria calls the Corsa speed the “world’s fastest tire” and the standard Corsa the “world’s best tire”. All of the Corsa series tires are lightweight; the Corsa models weigh in at 250g to 270g and the Speed at an ultra-light 165g. They also are all pricey; the tubular version retails for around $100, the clincher version for about $75. By comparison, you can find the Michelin Pro4, the Vredestein Fortezza Tricomp or the Continental Grand Prix 4000 clinchers for around $50, although none of these tires will give you the Corsa’s high thread count or race-proven reputation. Corsa tires are the choice of pro racers, but amateur riders often find the tires to be a little too finicky to be worth the extra money. Vittoria claims that their new casing includes a puncture-resistant belt that reduces the rate of flat tires by 40% over earlier models, but there’s no question that these tires are still made for speed rather than durability. Considering that the initial price of these tires is high, having to replace them often only adds to the already steep cost of owning a legendary brand. Diamante The Diamante steps the thread count of the casing material down to 220 TPI, producing a tire that the company says is right for “real-world racing.” The Diamante tires are tougher than their thoroughbred Corsa cousins, but they’re also light; the Diamante Pro Radiale weighs just 195g in its 22mm-wide version, and the Diamante Pro Light weighs 170g in its 23mm version. The Diamante Pro has a slick center tread with a subtle tread pattern at the shoulders, while the Pro Light is entirely slick. Both are clinchers and retail for about $50 The Diamante Pro Radiale features Vittoria’s radial casing construction, in which the cord ply of the casing material is oriented nearly parallel to the direction of travel, reducing rolling resistance as compared to bias-ply tires and allowing the tire to be more flexible. Because of the increased flex, some riders find radial tires to be a little unsteady when pushed into corners Like the Corsa tires, Diamante tires sacrifice durability for weight, grip and handling. Riders consistently complain that the tires wear quickly and are susceptible to flats, but other riders insist that the ride of the tires more than makes up for their lack of fortitude Rubino If the Diamante tires are for real-world racing, Rubino tires are simply for the real world. Rubino tires are designed to wear longer and stand up to harsher conditions than Vittoria’s racing tires, making them better suited to riders who demand more than just speed from their tires. Rubino tires come in three flavors: Rubino Pro, Rubino Pro Slick and Rubino Pro Tech. These three Pro models feature a 150 TPI casing and are foldable. Versions of the basic Rubino and the Rubino Slick with a rigid, non-foldable 60 TPI casing are also available. The Rubino Pro is an all-around tire with technical tread pattern, while the Slick is designed for smooth, clean pavement. The Rubino Tech is a bad-weather tire with a technical tread pattern, a grippier tread compound and reinforced sidewalls. Thanks to their heavier casings, the Rubino tires draw far fewer complaints about their durability than do Vittoria’s racing tires.  For our money, durability is important — we do not want to spend our time fixing road flats. They’re still a bit pricier than comparable tires from competing manufacturers, but their more reliable performance makes the premium price easier to stomach.  This is a common tire on today’s new midrange roadbikes, as they are often paired with a Shimano wheelset as stock equipment. Zaffiro Vittoria’s low-end series of training tires offers the same model categories as the Rubino series: a basic model, a slick model and an all-weather model. The foldable Zaffiro models are built with a 60 TPI casing, and the rigid models feature a 26 TPI casing material. The unique Zaffiro tread pattern—a combination of pebble texture and cross-hatch grooves—is the same in both the Zaffiro Pro and the Zaffiro Pro Tech, but the Tech version includes reinforced sidewalls and the company’s special wet-grip tread compound. Unlike its costlier relatives, the Zaffiro series doesn’t suffer from complaints about durability or cost (the Zaffiro Pro retails for about $20-$25). Riders consistently praise the tire for its long-wearing tread and resistance to flats. eBike Tires Vittoria is also making a hard push into the world of eBike tires, as that category grows like … Read more

Wahoo Rival Smart Watch Review

wahoo rival smart

Wahoo Rival Smart Watch Review: Our Assessment The Wahoo RIVAL Smartwatch gives Wahoo a legitimate option for the multisport watch and fitness tracker crowd. Shop for the Rival here. With an increasing demand for advanced wearable technology, Wahoo has stepped up to the plate and delivered a high-quality smartwatch that meets the needs of triathletes, endurance athletes, runners, and anyone who might want 24/7 fitness tracking. It boasts impressive features that put it up against competing watching, most of witch reside in the Garmin Forerunner and Fenix lineup. I took a close look at the Wahoo Rival, and wore it for a day. There was a lot to like, and as a loyal Garmin user, a couple things that I wasn’t sure about. But overall, the Rival is a really good watch, especially if you are a Wahoo loyalist. One of the biggest advantages of the Wahoo RIVAL is its seamless compatibility with other Wahoo products, such as the TICKR heart rate monitor and the ELEMNT cycling computers. This integration allows users to keep track of their performance data across multiple devices, ultimately providing a more comprehensive view of their progress. Admittedly, it skews towards cyclists versus other athletes. Additionally, the RIVAL’s user-friendly interface and vibrant display make it easy to navigate and visually appealing. While the Wahoo RIVAL may not cater to those seeking a fashion-forward or all-purpose smartwatch, or people who are Garmin loyalists, it has certainly carved out its niche within the endurance world.  Design and Build Quality The Wahoo Rival smartwatch features a sleek design with a round face and a crisp, easy-to-read display. The watch casing feels strong to the touch, giving a sense of durability and built for all-purposes. The strap is comfortable and adjustable, allowing for a secure fit on a variety of wrist sizes. The strap is actually more comfortable than the hard rubber default strap that comes on base Garmins. In terms of build quality, the Wahoo Rival smartwatch is very good, and stood up to some tough cycling and swimming use. The watch is water-resistant up to 50 meters, making it suitable for swimming and water sports.  You typically are swimming in 1 meter of water, when doing any type of workout. The buttons on the side of the watch are well-placed and tactile, providing a satisfying click when pressed. The display of the Wahoo Rival is easy to read, even in bright sunlight. This is no doubt influenced by Wahoo’s work over the years making good bike computers. The brightness of the display can be adjusted according to the user’s preferences, ensuring optimal readability in various lighting conditions. The watch face can also be customized to show different data points, allowing users to prioritize the information they want to see at a glance. When it comes to charging and battery life, I give the Rival a B+, which is quite good. The watch comes with a magnetic charging cable that attaches seamlessly to the device, ensuring a secure connection. The battery life was good, doing a good job during the days I had it. Per Wahoo, it has up to 14 days of battery in regular use or up to 24 hours in GPS mode. Display One of the more pleasant surprises of the Wahoo Rival was its display.  For some reason, I did not totally expect that. The Wahoo Rival Smart Watch features a high-resolution, full-color display that provides clear visibility in various lighting conditions. The screen measures 1.2 inches in diameter, offering ample space for users to view their metrics and notifications comfortably.  This puts it exactly the same size as another one of our favorites, the Garmin Forerunner 945. The watch’s display is constructed with a durable Gorilla Glass lens. This material ensures that the screen is resistant to scratches and impact, helping protect the watch during intense workouts and everyday use. Additionally, the screen’s brightness levels can be easily adjusted, ensuring optimal readability in any environment, from sunny outdoor activities to dim indoor settings. One of my favorite features of the Wahoo Rival’s display is its ability to switch between different watch faces with ease. Users can choose from several pre-loaded designs, allowing them to customize the look and feel of their watch to fit their personal preferences and style. This versatility not only enhances the overall user experience but also adds a unique touch to the product.   You want to wear the watch on a bike ride? You probably want one interface. Want to wear it in a business meeting, go for another. The Wahoo Rival display also incorporates a touch-less interface driven by buttons on the side of the watch. This eliminates the need for swipes and touches on the screen, reducing its exposure to natural skin oils, sweat, and dirt. The button-driven navigation ensures a more reliable and efficient user experience, particularly for those engaging in high-intensity workouts where wet or sweaty hands may impede proper touch-screen usage.  This is really important on a hard run or a hot bike ride. Health and Fitness Tracking Activity Monitoring The Wahoo RIVAL smartwatch features a wide range of activity monitoring capabilities. It tracks steps, calories burned, distance, and floors climbed throughout the day. The watch also includes a built-in GPS for accurate tracking of outdoor activities like running, walking, and hiking. Users can view their activity stats directly on the watch face or access more detailed information through the companion smartphone app. Cycling-specific monitoring Let’s face it, Wahoo started as a cycling company. For cyclists, the RIVAL offers a comprehensive set of features tailored to their needs. It supports multiple bike profiles, customizes data fields, and can connect to various cycling sensors including power meters, cadence sensors, and speed sensors. The watch also provides real-time speed, distance, elevation, and route information for a more engaging and informed riding experience. I personally think that cyclists are probably going to be more attractive to the Rival than athletes of other stripes. Heart Rate Monitoring Heart … Read more

Best Top Tube Bag

When we started preparing for our first 100-mile ride, we knew we were going to need to bring along plenty of food to fuel our ride. Our jersey pockets just weren’t going to cut it – we needed a top tube bag with easy access so we could eat on the bike. Top tube bags are ideal for long rides because they give you extra carrying space on your bike but are more aerodynamic than a handlebar bag. Tucked right up behind your stem, it will save space and be easy to access. In this article, we’ll discuss the best three top tube bags for long rides. But before we do that, let’s talk about what to look for in a top tube bag. What to Look for in a Top Tube Bag Space The first thing to look for in a top tube bag is how much space it has and how much food or items it can hold.  So, first think about what goes in your bike bag. For example, if you only plan on packing gels in your top tube bag, you might want the smallest one. On the other hand, if you’re going to pack your cell phone, your charger, as well as your snacks in there, you’ll need a larger one. Most top tube bags hold anywhere from half to 1 liter of items. Compartments You might want one large open bag, or you might prefer a bag with separate compartments to keep all of your goodies organized. For example, you can keep your gels on one side and your bars on the other. Other bags have outside pockets for quick access. Frame Fit For your top tube bag to be aerodynamic, it needs to fit your frame correctly. It should fit snugly up to the stem of your bike. If your top tube bag hangs over the side of the frame, it won’t be as aerodynamic as if it just hides behind the stem. If your bag has straps, they need to be long enough to wrap all the way around your top tube and stem. This isn’t usually a problem with steel frames, but carbon aero-bikes tend to have larger top tubes that might be difficult to fit, and some triathlon bikes have funky geometry with tight angles. You also want to ensure your top tube bag doesn’t interfere with your riding. It should be big enough to hold everything you need without banging into your knees. Mounts and Straps If your top tube has mounts built-in, you can use a frame bag that also has mounts. These work the same way that you would attach a water bottle cage to your frame. Not every bike has mounts, so if yours doesn’t, you’ll want to choose a top tube bag that has straps. Durability Your bag needs to last. Look for a bag with sturdy material and a strong zipper. Most bags are made from nylon, and some will be padded for extra protection.  This is especially important if you are going across rough terrain, such as in one of the popular gravel bike races that is really catching on around the country. Waterproofing Some top tube bags are waterproof or at least water-resistant. This is important if you want to keep your snacks or phone dry if you get caught out in the rain. If waterproofing is important to you, make sure the zipper is also waterproof, or your bag will leak. Charging Ports Some top tube bags have built-in spots for charging ports. This is a reinforced hole in the bag so you can thread wires through. You can keep your battery pack in the top tube bag and charge your bike computer or phone while riding. Top Three Top Tube Bags Rockbros Top Tube Bag Rockbros is known for producing quality bike products at reasonable prices. This top tube bag is easy to open and attaches snugly to your bike frame with Velcro straps. There’s plenty of room for your most needed items, including your cell phone, snacks, tools, and even your mini pump. It’s designed to be aerodynamic and thin enough that it won’t hit your knees while you are riding. It features: Main compartment with two netted inside pockets One tie rope on the outside Attaches with three straps Lightweight and aero Made with weather-resistant and durable fabric Slim design won’t interfere with riding Weight: 98g Size: 22*10*5.5cm Capacity: About 1L Personally, I love this top tube bag because I can fill it with snacks. Also, they’re easy to get out and munch without scraping against my knees while I ride. This bag is great for anyone who needs a larger bag for long rides that doesn’t get in the way, or whose frame design isn’t as conducive to a bag that hangs under the frame. Pros: A large-capacity bag Very easy access while on the move Cons: Too big?  Maybe overkill for shorter rides Find here on Amazon Topeak Fuel Tank The Topeak fuel tank is available in both medium and large sizes, so you can get the one that fits your needs. It attaches to your bike frame with hook and loop straps. If you’re looking for a bag designed to help you charge your devices, this one is a great idea. The bag itself is padded to help protect your phone or battery pack. In addition, it features a cable port so you can charge while riding. Made of 420 denier nylon /PVC Includes charging port Padded for extra protection Two mesh pockets Three adjustable straps 17.5 x 11 x 6.35 cm / 6.9” x 4.3” x 2.5” (Medium) 24 x 11 x 6.35 cm / 9.4” x 4.3” x 2.5” (Large) 120 g / 4.22 oz (Medium) 150 g / 5.28 oz (Large) 0.5 L / 30 ci (Medium) 0.75 L / 45 ci (Large) This bag is a great choice if you want the ability to charge your devices while you’re riding. … Read more

Bike Chain Lube Basics

pedro ice wax bike

Bike chain lube is a vital part of cycling.  If there are only two things you do regularly, you need to oil the chain and keep your tires inflated.  Those two things will solve a large chunk of possible cycling maintenance issues.   The good news is that oiling or lubing a bike chain is pretty darn easy. You can use many types of high-performance bike chain lubes, or many multi-purpose oils.  Even good old WD40 is still widely used and debated by cyclists, even though it’s more broadly recognized as a household quick fix than as a bike shop staple. We recommend you use a good bike repair stand because it puts the bike at eye level, and is just a whole lot more comfortable to work and do a good job without crouching down.  The Park Tool PCS 10-3 is an example of a stand we like. Now, some bike lube basics. What is Bike Lubricant For? Chains receive more attention than any other part of the bike when discussing lubricants, and for good reason. Chains can fling gritty muck all over the place when dirty, they audibly grind and squeak when dry, and they tend to rust faster and more severely than other parts of the bike. These annoyances are clues about chain lube’s main jobs: cleaning, lubrication, and corrosion resistance. Cleaning might be chain lube’s most easily misunderstood job. Plenty of products are more focused on, and effective at, cleaning serious muck and grit out of a chain. Most people will turn to these degreasers and cleaners for chain cleaning, since they only see a chain as dirty once a significant amount of material has built up on top of the chain. However, it’s contamination inside the chain’s tiny pins and rollers that harms a chain, not buildup outside its links. Chain lube helps clean these contaminants off and away before they do harm: lubricant takes up space between parts to keep unwanted material out, and re-applying lube washes these areas clean. Lubrication is more broadly understood but can still be less intuitive than expected. Chain links riding on gears are creating metal-on-metal contact, and lubrication can help lower the friction at these contact points. However, as we discussed with respect to cleaning, it’s the chain’s small pins and rollers where the magic of motion happens. For that reason, lubricants aren’t necessarily reducing friction between chains and gears as much as between parts of the chain itself. While the difference may seem minor, it’s critical for one reason: chains and gears wear out, but that’s not necessarily because of lubrication. In fact, using more and more lubricant to try to avoid gear and chain wear can be counterproductive. That leaves corrosion resistance, chain lube’s simplest job. From the very first bike chain to the newest, virtually every link, roller and pin are steel. Even corrosion-resistant stainless steel is unusual, so the vast majority of chains are prone to corrosion. How corrosion-prone can vary, but any source of moisture from airborne humidity to rain-filled potholes can set a chain on its way to rusty demise. The addition of salt, from seaside or ice-prone environments, is especially damaging to chains. In contrast, chain lubes do not corrode chains, so stick them in between the chain and water and problem solved. Types of Bike Chain Lube Walk into any bike shop, or navigate to any online store, and you’ll notice right away that “chain lube” is more of a category than a specific product. You might even find products that are chain lubes according to some, but not according to others: WD40 is one example, but so are bike shop staples like Tri-Flow and Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. Why? The answer is a theme which some readers will find familiar: it depends. Because chain lube does so many jobs, there are different lubes which prioritize those jobs differently. In general, though, chain lube divides into two areas: dry lube and wet lube. Dry lube is commonly misunderstood because it’s usually sold in a bottle containing liquid. The confusion is understandable, but look closer: Many dry lubes visibly separate in the bottle, leaving both liquid and solid components which need a healthy shake to re-combine. The solid component has most of the lubricating properties, while the liquid is just a solvent. Mixing the lubricant into that solvent makes delivery to the chain much easier, compared to pasting a dry film onto a chain, and the thin solvent also helps the lubricant creep further into the chain’s moving parts. The solvent usually evaporates quickly, leaving the chain dry to the touch but lubricated with a solid film, hence “dry lube.” Wet lube, in contrast, applies wet and stays wet. Wet lubes are also much more viscous than the solvent liquids of dry lubes, and far more stubborn: rather than evaporate, wet lube sticks to chains unless it’s wiped or blasted away. Most general purpose lubricants that see use on bike chains, such as 3-in-One oil, are considered wet lubes. Chains treated with wet lube are generally oily to the touch, and it’s usually wet lubes responsible for the telltale splatter you see on some frames and even riders’ pant legs. Both dry and wet lubes have benefits and drawbacks. Dry lube tends to adhere much less strongly to chains, making it far more susceptible to wash away in wet weather. In fact, it’s common for bike with dry lube on the chain to squeak viciously just from spending a day locked up outside in rainy weather. Large puddles are even more effective in stripping dry lube from a chain. However, those same puddles can be the bane of wet lube: the grit carried in murky roadside water and slush is easily combined into wet lube to form a nasty, abrasive mud. If left unchecked, this muck can solidify and greatly impede performance, not to mention flung droplets contaminating everything from clothing to frames and braking surfaces. Dusty environments such as construction … Read more

What is the Minimum Gear for Triathlon?

You can spend thousands on the sport of triathlon, but you don’t have to.  True, there are many athletes who invest hundreds or thousands of dollars each year to keep their triathlon times fast, and give themselves their gear-junkie fix.  But participating in a triathlon doesn’t have to break the bank. Our goal is to get more people doing triathlon.  We couldn’t care less if you are riding a $5,000 bike and have hired an expensive coach, or decided to try your first race on that bike that you pull the kids’s trailer with on weekends.  The fact is that most people in any given race are just doing it purely for fun or to stay in shape. Perhaps you are wanting to try one triathlon to see if you even like the sport, or maybe you agreed to be part of a triathlon to raise money for charity. If so, we are happy to have you in the sport!  While we’ve done lengthy articles on what to wear in a triathlon, the fact is that you can get by with a pretty limited amount of equipment, especially if you are not concerned about your time or where you will place. Minimum Gear for a Triathlon Here is our straight scoop on the minimum gear you need for a triathlon. Bike Helmet This one is a no-brainer, since all USAT-certified races (which is most of them) require the use of a bike helmet.  No helmet, no race.  You don’t need one of those space-age aero helmets.  Whatever one you have in your closet will do as long as it is ANSI approved.  If you don’t own a bike helmet, this is a good chance to buy one.  Even if we weren’t talking about triathlons, we would tell you that you need to use a bike helmet. Triathlon Shorts If you buy one special piece of equipment for a triathlon, we suggest it be tri shorts.  A good pair of triathlon shorts is a gamechanger.  You wear them during the swim, bike and run, preventing you from having to change your bottoms in a public transition area.  Tri shorts will dry quickly after the swim but have a bit of a seat pad to make the bike ride comfortable. You might be tempted to just go with a pair of padded bike shorts — but don’t. Cycling shorts are not designed to dry quickly, so the wet seat pad could easily cause chafing on the bike or run.  Plus, the seat chamois on a regular pair of bike shorts is too bulky to comfortably run in. T-Shirt, or Workout Shirt You will see people in fancy tri tops, but truth be told, you can easily do a triathlon in your regular old t-shirt or cycling shirt.  Something that is moisture-wicking is a big plus.  Put it on after the swim. Sunglasses A safety feature.  It is less about the sun than about keeping debris and bugs from getting in your eyes on the bike ride.  Any old shades will do, but you can get a decent pair of cycling glasses for $35 or less.  Once you find a pair you like, get a backup of the exact same thing to have on hand. Bike Yes, you will need a bike.  No, it does not need to be expensive.  We see people do triathlons on their old mountain bikes, hybrids, or other slower bikes — and especially with a couple simple modifications these bikes can do very well.  If you can, try to use a road bike, even if you simply borrow one from a friend.  The better gearing and smoother tires will help you do better in the race.  If you can’t, no big deal.  Just be sure the bike fits you correctly, and that your shoes will be compatible with the pedals.  If you are borrowing, fit is way more important than features. (for ladies) Sports Bra or Swim Top If you don’t want to spend money on a triathlon top or singlet, you can definitely do a shorter swim in a sports bra or swim top.  Just be sure it isn’t cotton, and it should dry relatively quickly on your bike ride. A good pair of running shoes is all you really need for the bike or run legs.  Most experienced triathletes will be using cycling shoes with SPD or clipless pedals for the bike ride, but you certainly do not have to.  Just be sure the bike you are riding has pedals compatible with your shoes.  If you use running shoes, you will want regular, plain pedals or pedals with cages. That is really the basic list of tri gear.  We’d rather have you participate in the minimum acceptable gear than not race at all…. But if you have the budget, consider adding the following.  This next list still is not at the experienced triathlete level, but will allow you to have a little more fun during the race. What to Consider Adding to your Tri Gear List Wetsuit A good wetsuit will help make the swim easier and warmer.  You can buy, rent, or borrow, just be sure it is a triathlon wetsuit.  All-purpose wetsuits don’t allow for the range-of-motion you will need.  A good triathlon wetsuit will make the swim more enjoyable, and we are always looking for ways to help you find wetsuits at clearance prices so you can save a few bucks. Road Bike or Tri Bike If you can, opt for a road bike or triathlon bike.  The gearing and positioning will make the ride much faster and more fun.  Plus, you will have more juice left in your legs for the run. Cycling Shoes If you ride a road or tri bike, you will definitely want the cycling shoes that match the pedals on most of those bikes.  The big benefit here is that you will get more power and speed from each stroke. Triathlon or Bike Top Having a more … Read more