Cycling

The Vittoria Corsa Pro and Vittoria Corsa Speed, alongside the Continental 5000, have emerged as the leading options for avid cyclists who need the best speed from their tires. These tires are all designed to provide good speed and acceleration on various road conditions, but they also have some subtle differences that are worth knowing about before you buy one. The Vittoria Corsa series is celebrated for its blend of low rolling resistance, grip, and durability. The Corsa Pro model offers a balanced performance that appeals to both competitive and casual riders. The Vittoria Corsa Speed is focused on delivering the lowest rolling resistance and is a top choice for time trials and high-speed endeavors. Its thin tread and puncture-protection layer make it a specialized tire for races against the clock. The venerable Continental 5000 tire is a direct competitor, renowned for its all-round performance. It incorporates Continental’s latest technologies, like the BlackChili compound and Vectran breaker, offering exceptional grip and puncture resistance. We have always appreciated its versatility and reliability, which is why it has become a staple on the road biking scene for various types of riders and terrains. All are considered some of the best road bike tires on the market today. Overview of 3 Premium Road Bike Tires When it comes down to it, most cyclists are trying to balance between speed, durability, and puncture resistance. Every tire has a set of tradeoffs. The key is knowing which tradeoffs you can live with and which are nonstarters for you. Vittoria Corsa Pro The Vittoria Corsa Pro tire is recognized for its excellent grip and durability. Cyclists like its puncture resistance and consistent air retention, particularly in the tubeless models when used with sealant. Though it may be marginally slower than some competitors, reliable sources suggest that its overall performance is comparable to other top-tier tires. Vittoria Corsa Speed For riders who are focused mainly on speed, the Vittoria Corsa Speed emerges as a top choice, reportedly saving about 3 watts per tire compared to other models. Ideal for time trials and smooth tarmac racing, this tire offers an aerodynamic advantage. However, it is optimized for speed at the potential cost of reduced puncture resistance, a tradeoff that we don’t think is worth it for most cyclists. Continental 5000 The Continental 5000 is a versatile all-rounder that has stood the test of time, touted for its balance between aerodynamics and durability. This tire is a favorite for a wide range of road cycling activities, from training to racing time trials. Its popularity stems from a combination of good puncture resistance and a competitive price point, making it a repeat choice for many cyclists. Comparative Analysis We wanted to get down-and-dirty with each tire, having them in hand both on a rim and off. Here is what we saw. Performance Factors The Vittoria Corsa Pro and Corsa Speed tires are known for their superior grip and comfort, especially in wet conditions. The Corsa Pro balances flexibility and strength for a responsive ride, while the Corsa Speed is designed for optimal speed with a lighter construction. The Continental 5000 is the jack-of-all-trades, recognized for its exceptional handling and all-around performance, making it a versatile option. Tire Durability In terms of durability, the Continental 5000 shows a resilience that is well-suited for high-mileage riders — really important to our testers. It’s built with a robust Vectran breaker layer which contributes to its longevity. The Vittoria Corsa Pro, with its thicker tread, also offers an impressive lifespan and our team has owned some Corsa Pros that stand-up very well to wear. The Vittoria Corsa Speed, though highly efficient for race day, may not have the same long-term durability due to its focus on reducing weight for speed. You’ll probably have more flats. Rolling Resistance A lower rolling resistance translates to faster speeds on the road. The Vittoria Corsa Speed is specifically designed to minimize rolling resistance, giving it an edge in time-trial and race scenarios. The edge is slight, but might be noticeable if you are being timed. The Continental 5000 competes closely with a laser-focused design on low rolling resistance while maintaining good grip. The Vittoria Corsa Pro offers a balance between low resistance and other performance factors but may not be as optimized as the Corsa Speed in this particular aspect. Our Road Test We did a few spins with each of the three tires — there is no substitute for actually riding them on real roads and trails. In test-riding the Vittoria Corsa Pro, Corsa Speed, and the Continental 5000, we observed notable differences in real-world conditions. Speed Comparison Vittoria Corsa Speed: Offers a very slight speed advantage on certain (perfect) road conditions. However, the gain is subtle and may not be perceptible during a ride. Probably more of a time trial advantage. Vittoria Corsa Pro: Provides a reliable alternative with basically the same speed, with competitive speed and efficiency noted. The differences in speed compared to the Corsa Speed are very minute for non-competitive riders. The tire feels more durable, and we’re all about fewer flats. Continental 5000: Remains a firm favorite for its all-around capabilities, rolls nicely and can accelerate easily, is durable enough to withstand road debris. Our team often chooses it for its consistency during different types of rides. Mounting and Durability All tires mounted as expected, no significant differences were observed. Our riders had a couple flats with the Vittoria, but none with the Continental 5000. We can’t say this was a controlled experiment though — road and riding conditions change by the hour as you know. Rider Preferences Several riders expressed a preference for the Continental 5000 during training, citing its balance of speed and durability. For time trials, the Vittoria Corsa Speed was the overwhelming preferred choice, although many riders were content with the Continental 5000. Aero and Rolling Resistance In terms of aerodynamics, there are some very slight differences but are generally they are overshadowed by other factors such as rider position and equipment. The Vittoria … Read more

Any cyclist with any mileage behind them remembers close calls with motorists.  When I think back to the close calls I’ve had over the years, there are a few that quickly come to mind and make me cringe, and two more from last summer were officially added to the list. Most recently, I was stopped at a stoplight with several cars.  I saw the light for me turn green, and the cars to my left (going in the same direction as me) began to move.  I started to clip-in and roll. Then, I heard horns. A car was coming from my left to my right, through the intersection, blowing its red light by a good 4-5 seconds.  Not even close. The cars going in the same direction as me had all slammed on their brakes.  Had it not been for someone’s horn, there is a good chance I would have been in the intersection when the inattentive driver blew through the intersection.  The car was probably doing 25 mph, so it undoubtedly would have been an injury accident or worse. It got me thinking about the things a cyclist can do to avoid accidents., especially when on a road bike.  3-4 “rules” to follow that cover a large percentage of the known bike-car accidents.  This all assumes that you are already doing the basics, of course: Wearing a helmet, following traffic laws, riding on safe roads, and trying to be visible. Rule #1:  Don’t be aggressive at intersections   45% of collisions between bikes and cars happen at intersections.  When you are cycling, you are never the alpha on the road compared to even the wimpiest car. Swallow your pride and don’t be aggressive. There are several websites that show diagrams of common bike accidents, backed up by statistics on bike-car collisions.  When you look at the 10-12 most common accident types, one thing is obvious: Intersections are bad. Treat them as if they are danger zones, even if the laws say that you can fly through them. When the cars have stop signs or red lights, assume they can’t see you. When a motorist is coming to an intersection, and signaling that they are going to turn left across your straight path, assume they will cut you off. Statistics tell us that car-bike collisions commonly happen at intersections, especially in urban areas.  The chances of a collision are no doubt higher if the cyclist is cranking as hard as they can, staring at his or her timer or triathlon watch, trying to set a new PR on their favorite segment of their regular ride.  One of the best things a cyclist can do is to treat each major intersection as a bit of a breather or break.  Slow down, perhaps even come to a full stop and unclip.  Take a drink of your water, and then survey the situation.  Pick a calm moment to proceed through a busy intersection. When a light turns from red to green, give it a few seconds to be sure every last red-light runner has had a chance to clear out. Intersections are nasty.  Drivers are often under pressure to make a light, or to thread the needle between a couple moving vehicles, making you a sitting duck.  Chill out, don’t about your average speed, and slow down. Treat each intersection as if you will need to slam on the brakes in any given second. Rule #2:  Don’t ride at night or in the evening rush   The data is clear — a highly disproportionate number of accidents happen during the hours of 4pm to 9pm.  This correlates with two things: The evening rush hour, and sunset. According to the NHTSA, most fatal bike accidents occur in a tight three-hour window of the day:  between 6pm and 9pm. It might go without saying, but if you are able to, take steps to stay away from cars while cycling. If you are a bike commuter, you might not be able to avoid the afternoon rush hour.  In that case, try to find trails, bike lanes, or safe shoulders to spend more of your commute on.  The combination of more cars on the road, and many of those drivers being in a hurry to get somewhere, create an amplified hazard situation for you. If you are not a bike commuter, then figure out ways to just stay off the roads later in the day.  If you must do your workout at 8pm, when it is dusk or even dark, consider using an indoor trainer or, at a minimum, ride on trails (with a headlamp) instead of on the shoulder or road. And don’t forget that when you start your ride, it will be later in the day when you finish it. That nice 30-miler that you want to sneak in at 7pm might not end until 8:45pm, when it is officially dark and way less safe to be on the road! Rule #3: Use Cycling Safety Lights Daytime running lights for bikes have gained in popularity in recent years. While there is some debate in the cycling community on if these lights are necessary and even legal, they seem to have a safety benefit.  Anecdotally, as a driver, I tend to notice those bright, flashing lights well before I would have noticed a cyclist on the shoulder. While I would like to see more studies on the topic (maybe Complete Tri will commission one!), there have been some studies showing promising results.  A Danish study found that the bright, flashing running lights reduced daytime car-bike accidents by 20% to 30% or more.  That is a significant finding. A Clemson University study also found that a flashing tail light was much more visible than an always-on tail light from 200 meters away. We did an entire piece on cycling safety lights here, including a list of our favorites. What is the debate in the cycling community? Some believe that the lights make it harder for cars to judge … Read more

I’ve done my share of cold weather rides, be it pure winter rides on a fat bike or those fall or spring rides when it looks warmer than it really is. I’ve learned it is a delicate balance of being cold or overdressing, neither of which are good. The art and science involved in dressing for colder-weather cycling is something that takes a while to develop, but I want to share with you what I’ve learned over many years of dialing-in my cold weather riding system. I’ll go body part by body part, which seems like the best way to do it. What to Wear for Cold Weather Cycling Core Warmth: Base Layer and Jacket It all starts with the core. Keeping your core warm is essential for cold weather cycling. If your core can’t stay warm, you will have a hard time being comfortable on the ride. At the same time, overdressing on the core can very quickly cause you to overheat. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer to keep sweat away from your skin. For me, this is often a synthetic t-shirt. Then, I often add another long-sleeved base layer if it is a cold day, but one that is thin enough to not be bulky. Once I feel I have my core heat taken care of, I add a windproof jacket, but one without too much insulation. I’d rather rely on layers than a heavy outer layer. Look for jackets with vents to prevent overheating. I like my jacket to be design specifically for cycling, with a svelte cut and pockets in the back. Recommendation: The Pearl Izumi Amfib jacket is great. It is quite warm for how low-profile it is. Legs: Knee Warmers or Cycling Tights Next up, those legs. Your legs will actually stay warmer than you think, but you still need to take care of covering them. For your legs, you have two options: knee warmers or cycling tights. it is usually an either-or, I don’t use them together. Knee warmers are a great option for milder temperatures. They are just what they sound like, meant to be worn over your knees to keep the joint and ligaments warm. You might be tempted to use them for running, too, but they really don’t work for that. The running motion makes them jostle down your leg. But they are great for cycling. Best of all, they are small enough so if it warms up and you want to take them off, you can just toss them in your jacket or jersey pocket or your bike bag. Cycling tights provide more insulation for colder weather, along with full coverage (knee warmers leave some exposed skin.) Look for tights with a sheen that will break the wind. They key is to not get thick or cloth tights – it is hard to explain, but you don’t want them to double-up on your bike shorts in the saddle. That would cause discomfort over a long ride. I prefer to wear my regular cycling shorts with both knee warmers or cycling tights, so I don’t choose the tights with a chamois. Just thin ones that can go over my bike shorts. Recommendation: The Castelli brand Knee Warmer is comfortable and you will be shocked how effective it is down to relatively low temps. It is only for cycling, not running, though. When running, it will work its way down off your knee. Hands: Gloves Your hands are one of the most vulnerable parts of your body in cold weather. Look for cycling-specific gloves with insulation and windproof material to keep your hands warm and dry. Consider getting gloves with touchscreen compatibility so you can use your phone without taking them off. Be sure that when you gloves are on with your preferred cycling jacket, you don’t have a gap of exposed skin between the glove cuff and the jacket cuff. This might mean either having a longer jacket or a longer glove cuff. Every cyclist should have multiples pairs of bike gloves, because this is one area where you will want to be able to choose based on conditions. 10 degrees can make a huge difference. Recommended: For colder weather rides, I really like the Pearl Izumi Lobster Evo gloves. They are a cross between a glove and a mitt, and are extremely effective against the cold even without any additional layers or handwarmers.   Feet: Heavy Socks, Maybe Shoe Covers Far and away, the body part that gives me the most trouble on rides are my feet. Specifically, my toes. Even on rides that aren’t brutally cold, my toes freeze before any other body part. I think it is because the toes are cutting into the wind the entire ride, with little break. Most cycling shoes are designed for warmer weather, so what makes them breathable when it is 90 degrees out makes then not great when it is 25. Keeping your feet warm is crucial for a comfortable ride. Wear heavy socks made of wool or synthetic material to keep your feet dry and warm, and ideally socks that extend well up your shin and calf.  If you ride when it is quite cold or have a history of freezing toes, you can also consider wearing shoe covers to protect your shoes from the elements. They provide just enough coverage to keep some of the windchill off your toes. Neck: Gaiter or Balaclava It is often forgotten, but I really like to keep my neck warm on a ride. I use a neck gaiter on 90% of our colder rides, and a full balaclava on the other 10%. You can pull the gaiter up over your chin, mouth, or even most of your face if you need to. A balaclava is a more complete way to keep your neck and face from the cold. It’s a good option if you are worried about your face getting cold, but I usually am OK on the face, I just … Read more

There are many reasons cyclists wear gloves when riding.  They can help cushion your hands and prevent callouses. Sometimes a glove is enough shock absorber to make your elbows and shoulders feel better on a ride. Some cycling gloves are designed to keep your hands warm. Other gloves can give you protection against a spill or a stray tree branch.  The best cycling gloves can do a little of everything. Finding the right glove depends partly on the type of riding you do.  A century (100 mile) road rider might want different gloves than a mountain biker.  Still, there are some gloves that are just superior to others, and the good news is that they don’t change that much. Cycling gloves differ from running gloves in that they have some padding. Here are our 5 favorite cycling gloves right now Open Finger Bike Gloves Garneau Biogel RX-V Here on Amazon. When it comes to cycling gear, we have always trusted the LG brand – they make some of our favorite cycling shorts too.  The Garneau gloves reflect the design and construction of all of their other gear — consistent, durable, and functional.  The RXV gloves have enough palm padding to provide comfort while cycling, but enough ventilation so your hands will not be overheating. The LG Biogel gloves work well for both road and mountain biking, but we think they are probably ideal for road biking.  The gloves are open-finger, a favorite for summer riders.  They provide enough padding to take pressure off the shoulder, elbow, and wrist.  Durability seems very good, both in terms of longevity but also the ability to withstand a scrape or two. While the gloves are technically not waterproof, they dry out quickly and hold up well when machine-washed between rides. Highly breathable Comfortable – quickly molds to your hand’s shape Many Color Choices Great low-profile design for road cyclists Find here. Pearl Izumi Elite Gel Gloves Here on Amazon. The honor roll of great cycling gear companies continues with Pearl Izumi, which is right up there with LG.  Pearl Izumi is a lock on nearly every “best of” list we have for cycling gear or triathlon gear, because their products are just that good.  Whenever we see the combination of “Pearl Izumi” and “Elite”, we know that it is likely a very good product line. A typical cyclists’ closet has lots of Pearl Izumi Elite things in it – from shorts to jackets – and they are as reliable as anything. Equally suited for the road or the single track trails, the Pearl Izumi open-finger Elite gloves are unisex and come in four color options. We like the bright yellow for our road rides, as we try hard to make everything as visible as possible. The Pearl Izumi Elite gloves have gel padding in the palms, probably a bit more substantial than the Garneau gloves above. If your attitude on cushion is “the more the better”, you will probably like these.  Pearl Izumi has worked hard to minimize the number of seams on the glove, resulting in a silky smooth fit. They tend to run a bit tight, so choose a size up if in doubt. They come in five size options. Heavier padding Bright colors Nearly Seamless Great value Best palm protection if you want to pad from falls or rocks Find here. Castelli Arenberg Gel Here on Amazon. Castelli makes some of our favorite and good-value bike shorts, and they also have gloves that have stood the test of time.  The Arenberg model has been beloved by both mountain and road cyclists for years. One thing we have always liked about Castelli has been their price points.  They make good gear that is going to get good use, but they keep the price ranges reasonable.  You can get higher-end gloves, but you will have to pay for them.  The Arenberg is a glove that will do a great job for many. Fit is normally spot-on, and the gloves are very comfortable once broken in.  The heavier gel is strategically placed so your pressure points during a ride, and likely contact points during a fall, are reinforced. While the Castelli gloves seem to excel for mountain bikers, these gloves should work well for any type of cycling. Not as bulky Great padding on palms Versatile Mesh top for better breathability A nice in-between option for cyclists who find themselves in all kinds of situations Find them here. Closed Finger Bike Gloves Pearl Izumi Cyclone Gel Gloves  Here on Amazon. For a good pair of closed-finger gloves, you really can’t go wrong with the Pearl Izumi Cyclones. The Cyclone gloves provide just enough warmth to be a difference-maker on those colder days.  Full-finger coverage and a nice wrist gusset help keep skin from the wind and cold.  They are rated for 40 to 60 degrees, but we’ve used them in the 30s and they worked well. At the same time, the Cyclones have gel padding in the palm, to offer all of the benefits you would normally find in the open-finger Pearl Izumi gloves.  The padding is throughout the front of the glove, focused on the palm and the base of the fingers. Because of all of the gel padding, it takes a little while to break them in.  Once you do, though, they will form-fit well. It just gets a little tricky if you switch bikes and postures a lot. We think these gloves work well between about 35 and 50 degrees, so a great option for fall and spring riding, and winter riding in areas where the mercury doesn’t dip too low. Great shoulder season gloves Covers the knuckle, protecting you on those single track rides Nice padding Good finger length for riders with longer fingers Excellent wrist protection e-tip so you can use touch screen devices w/ gloves on Find here Sealskinz All Weather XP Gloves  Here on Amazon. The Sealskinz gloves hit the scene several years ago, but really … Read more

I’ve seen it a few times. I get someone setup on their beginner road bike, their first one ever. They start looking over the bike, and get to the wheels, look at the valve, and ask “what’s this?!” There are two main types of bike wheel valves: The Schrader valve and the Presta valve. Both serve the same purpose of controlling air flow in and out of the tire, but there is a reason the two are used in very different situations. The Schrader valve is the most common valve found on general bikes, and it is probably the one you had on your bikes as a kid or the commuter bike you ride around town. It’s also the same type of valve used on car tires. It’s a sturdy, all-purpose valve that’s easy to use and can handle high pressure. You’ll recognize it by its wider stem and a spring-loaded valve core that is kind of recessed in the center. Schrader valves are the ones found on more entry-level bikes, cheaper mountain bikes, and kids’ bikes. The Presta valve, also known as a French valve, is the one that you will find on nearly every road or tri bike. It is a narrower valve that’s increasingly used on higher-end mountain bikes too. It has a threaded stem with a locking nut that you need to unscrew before inflating the tire. The Presta valve is designed for high-pressure tires and it can dial-in the PSI (pounds per square inch) more precisely than the Schrader valve. It’s also lighter and more aerodynamic, making it a popular choice among road cyclists or anyone who has a higher-performance bike. Schrader Valve Design and Functionality For years growing up, all I knew was the Schrader Valve from my mountain bikes and BMX bikes. This is what many might consider the standard bike tire valve. This valve has a simple design consisting of a metal stem with a rubber seal that is pressed against the valve opening to prevent air from escaping. The valve is opened by depressing a spring-loaded pin in the center of the valve stem, allowing air to flow in or out. Common Uses Schrader valves are commonly used on tires for mountain bikes, BMX bikes, and some hybrid and cruiser bikes. They are also used on car tires, air compressors, and some inflatable toys. Compatibility and Sizing When it comes to compatibility and sizing, Schrader valves are generally easier to work with than Presta valves. They are compatible with most pumps and can be inflated at gas stations or with a standard air compressor. Schrader valves are available in two sizes: standard and large. Standard Schrader valves have a diameter of 8mm, while large Schrader valves have a diameter of 10mm. Advantages and Disadvantages A big advantage of Schrader valves is their durability. They are stubby and strong, so less prone to damage from debris and can withstand more knocking around than Presta valves. Schrader valves are also compatible with almost any air pump, like those found at gas stations, so they can be an advantage if you need to pump your tire while on the go. However, Schrader valves are heavier and bulkier than Presta valves, which can be a disadvantage for road cyclists who prioritize weight savings. Additionally, Schrader valves require a larger hole in the rim, which can weaken the rim over time. Presta Valve Design and Functionality I am exclusively using Presta valves these days on all my bikes. It is a slender valve that is commonly found on high-performance bikes. The valve has a threaded stem that allows it to be securely fastened to the rim of the wheel. The valve core is also removable, which makes it easy to add or remove air from the tire. Common Uses Presta valves are the valves you see on road bikes, gravel bikes, higher-end mountain bikes, and other high-performance bikes. They are also used in tubeless tire setups. Because of their design, Presta valves can handle higher pressure than Schrader valves, making them right for any tire that needs higher pressure like a road bike tire. They can also let air out of the tire with great precision, an advantage if you are trying to dial-in your PSI very precisely. Compatibility and Sizing When it comes to compatibility, Presta valves are not as widely used as Schrader valves in the overall bike universe, but they are actually much more common in the world of road bikes, triathlon bikes, and gravel bikes.. Most bike pumps come with a Presta valve adapter, which allows you to inflate tires with either type of valve. Presta valves come in different lengths, so it is important to choose the correct length for your rim depth. If you have a rim that is deep and aerodynamic, you need a longer valve or it won’t be able to peek out of the rim! Advantages and Disadvantages The biggest advantage of Presta valves is that they are able to handle higher pressure than Schrader valves. This makes them the best for road and triathlon cyclists. Another advantage is that the valve core is removable, which makes it easy to add or remove air from the tire. The only real disadvantage of Presta valves is that they are not as widely used as Schrader valves, so lots of tire pumps in parks or at convenience stores might not have the ability to pump a Presta valve.  Another downside is that te valve stem is more fragile than the Schrader valve, which can make it more prone to damage. What makes the Presta valve so ideal for getting precise PSI is also a downside in some cases perhaps. If you put pressure on the valve core to let some air out, you can let 20 PSI out in a hurry!  A Schrader valve isn’t as touchy. When to Use Schrader Valves, When to Use Presta Valves Here are some simple guidelines on when to use Schrader valves … Read more

Bike fitting is an underrated service, and honestly one that more cyclists should get. In this article, I’ll give you an idea of what a bike fitting should cost, and what you can expect from the fitting session. I know lots of cyclists who have cycled for years without a real bike fitting, and when they finally got one, they wish they would have done it sooner. Bike fitting can range from a basic adjustment of the saddle and handlebars to a more comprehensive fitting process that involves analyzing the rider’s body measurements, flexibility, power positions, and riding style. The cost of bike fitting can vary depending on the type of bike, with road bikes often requiring more time and attention than other types of bikes.  Basics of Bike Fitting Bike fitting is the process of adjusting a bicycle to fit the rider’s body and riding style. It goes WAY behind just making sure that the bike generally fits, like you might do when hopping on a new or different bike. It often involves making changes to the bike’s components, such as the stem, saddle, handlebars, and pedals, to ensure that the rider is comfortable and efficient while riding. A proper bike fitting is done by a professionally-trained fitter, who is often someone who does that as their only occupation. Secondarily, some bike shops have fitters on staff who might not be quite as advanced but still have the know-how to do a cursory fitting. There are a few different types of bike fitting that you’ll see on the market, ranging from cursory to very detailed. I recommend doing the more extensive kind. A proper bike fit can can be a gamechanger for a cyclist of any level, in my opinion. It can improve comfort, eliminate ride soreness, reduce the risk of injury, and increase efficiency and power output. A poorly fitting bike not only lessens your power output, but it can actually create misalignment and overuse injuries, believe it or not. My Bike Fitting Experience Put me in the camp of people who didn’t realize the importance of a real, professional bike fitting for a long time.   I rode for years without ever getting a professional bike fit. I would buy bikes that I knew fit me pretty well, have the bike shop spend 10 minutes adjusting things, and then I would tinker on the fit as I rode. The problem was that I did not have the technical expertise to know if I was adjusting things just right. I was just doing what I thought made sense, and eliminating any obvious discomfort.   I finally started investing in real bike fittings, and wow, the difference was immediate.  Within 10 minutes of my first professional fitting, I had learned so much from the fitter about assumptions I had been making that needed to be corrected. I learned from him that there is an absolute right way to set a bike up, and it should be based on many more factors than the typical cyclist assumes.   When I finally got a quality bike fitting from a pro, my ability to do longer and more demanding technical rides shot up immediately. I think my power increased by about 5% too.   Having a bike that is even a few millimeters off here or there will really compromise you!   Cost of Bike Fitting The cost of bike fitting can vary depending on the type of fitting and the level of expertise required. It can also vary based on the type of package you decide to buy. Professional Fitting A professional bike fitting is a comprehensive process that involves a detailed analysis of the rider’s body and bike. It is usually conducted by a certified bike fitter who has extensive knowledge and experience in bike fitting. The cost of a professional bike fitting can range from $250 to $500 or more, depending on the location and the level of expertise of the fitter. The professional fitting cost often includes one brief follow-up visit to make minor adjustments that might be needed. In some cases, you might buy a package of fittings from a professional bike fitter. I purchased on recently that was a “buy and fit” package, where the fitter had me go through a battery of measurement on a “fitting bike” – a bike that looks like a space-aged device and its sole purpose is to measure your cycling position. Based on my measurements, we ordered a new gravel bike that was nearly perfect for me right out of the box, and then he adjusted it to all the specifications that he had determined during the initial fitting. During a professional fitting, the fitter will conduct a detailed analysis of your body measurements and your pedal stroke, along with your preferred position for maximum comfort and power. They will take detailed measurements and analyzing your power, flexibility, strength, and range of motion. They will also analyze the rider’s pedaling technique and adjust the bike’s components, such as the saddle, handlebars, and pedals, to ensure that they are in the optimal position for the rider’s body. A good professional bike fitter will have the attitude that no cyclist should have any discomfort on the bike. If your back is getting sore, or your wrists are getting numb, there is a reason for it and it can be fixed. Basic Fitting A basic bike fitting is a less comprehensive process that is usually conducted by a bike shop or a bike mechanic. It involves adjusting the bike’s components to fit the rider’s body based on basic measurements and observations. The cost of a basic bike fitting can range from $50 to $150, depending on the location and the level of expertise of the mechanic. If you are buying a brand new bike from the bike shop, there is a chance that the fitting will be thrown in as part of your bike purchase. During a basic fitting, the fitter will … Read more